Before this year, I had never spent any significant time in the Middle East. Despite studying the region academically for years and staying up-to-date on the region throughout my professional career, I had never had the opportunity to visit this dynamic and underappreciated region of the world. But as part of the Middle East Policy Council’s 40 Under 40 program, I finally received the chance of a lifetime to visit the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia for nearly two weeks. In coordination with a Saudi-backed program called Gateway KSA, I was treated to an incredible cultural, economic, and political tour of a place that many consider to be the heart of the Middle East. Throughout the trip, I saw the beginnings of major changes and new developments in the region. We started with a few days in the capital Riyadh, then went to Dammam (home of the petroleum company Saudi Aramco), the ancient cultural site of Al-Ula, and ended our travels in Jeddah. Much of the focus of this trip was about promoting Saudi Arabia’s Vision 2030 initiative, which is a massive program of economic and social development that the country started several years ago. So was this all one big public relations show, or is there some truth to Saudi Arabia’s claims of meaningful reform?

Social Changes

The first and most obvious sign of change in Saudi Arabia is in the social sphere. Most of us have heard of a few of these. Women are now allowed to drive, go out in public without a male chaperone, and strict dress codes are no longer enforced (at least in the major cities). Women already make up nearly 40% of the workforce as well. For the most part, people are free to go about their business with no interruption. I saw no signs of the infamous religious police, and the atmosphere felt like any other place I’ve been to. Gone are the days when someone could be questioned or arrested just for speaking to someone of the opposite gender. There are even rumors that alcohol could be allowed into the country within the next several years.

Everyone I spoke to (including random people on the street) was very happy to see these changes. The usual backlash one might expect from such rapid societal shifts appears very unlikely. After all, nearly 70% of the population is under the age of 30 and they are eager to see these developments happen. This new version of the country is one that is undoubtedly more tolerant and welcoming to outsiders (hence tourism is a big focus of their future economy). There are still aspects that fall short when compared against a “Western” viewpoint. Full freedom of speech and equality under the law do not exist in Saudi Arabia. But we should recognize and support the areas where improvement is being made. After all, these changes help ensure the stability of Saudi Arabia because restrictive societies tend to eventually be faced with significant internal struggles (see Iran as one example).

Economic Changes

Throughout the trip, Saudi Arabia was very proud to promote their economic changes and major development projects. As the world becomes less dependent on petroleum as an energy source, Saudi Arabia is looking to balance that loss with major investments in tourism and international finance. The Vision 2030 program seeks to make Saudi Arabia a major investment hub for global companies. Saudi also claims to be making a major shift towards renewable energy sources, but this is only for domestic purposes. Unfortunately, they are not looking to become the leader of tomorrow’s energy solutions by dropping petroleum products entirely. Hopefully the Kingdom is able to keep its promise of net-zero carbon emissions by 2050, but that remains to be seen.

Though it wasn’t a focus of the trip, Saudi Arabia has also embarked on a series of mega projects throughout the Kingdom. Projects like the Red Sea Project, The Line, The Mukaab, and others are impressive in their scope and audacity, but there are signs that the country may be trying to do too much at one time. One sign of this was when we toured the King Abdullah Economic City (KAEC). This city began as a mega project about 15 years ago, but it still hasn’t reached its potential. There are many impressive buildings and nice features, but almost nobody lives there currently. This may improve as its young population starts looking for permanent work, but Saudi Arabia would do well to focus on making a few of these projects successful at a time. By trying to have everything, they risk ending up with little to show for it.

Political Changes

Lastly, there are political changes to consider. Much has been made about Crown Prince Muhammad bin Salman’s political reforms and the way in which they were carried out. Several years ago, he embarked on a swift campaign to sideline his political opponents and reduce corruption. Though his methods were questionable, it was undoubtedly successful and the end result has been rather popular within Saudi Arabia. Many believe that these social and economic changes were only possible because of his consolidation of power.

Another major change to note is that women are starting to gain meaningful roles in the decision making process. We had the honor of speaking with Hoda Al-Helaissi, one of the first women appointed to Saudi Arabia’s Shura Council (similar to Congress). Women now comprise 20% of the appointees to the council (with a goal of 40% women by 2030). This council helps make and review laws, although the King has the final authority to approve everything. Despite being an unelected body, it appears to have broad support from the population at large. It was at this point that we heard one of the most profound observations that should inform everyone’s views of Saudi Arabia and countries with similar styles of government. Hoda mentioned that the concern in most of Saudi society is not towards democratic representation, but of good governance. If the government is running things well, then why take a chance to overhaul the entire political system? After all, one could certainly say that American-style democracy doesn’t look all that appealing these days.

Unsurprisingly, little was mentioned during the trip regarding Saudi Arabia’s foreign policy. As a guest in their homes I felt it would be disrespectful to discuss a topic that could quickly become so heated. However, there was some admission that the war in Yemen will unfortunately continue on for quite some time. No side in the conflict has a direct incentive to stop the fighting.

The Bottom Line

Saudi Arabia is a country that appears to be embracing the outside world in a remarkable way. It’s casting aside the old rules which obstructed outside investment, while still keeping a distinct focus on maintaining its traditional Bedouin culture. In doing so, Saudi looks to become as successful as places like Dubai, but without becoming what is essentially an Arab Las Vegas.

Overall, I was expecting a very carefully-controlled public relations show during this trip. While there was certainly some embellishment of its progress, I believe Saudi Arabia is truly making major positive changes. This change is meaningful, widespread, and authentic. There are still many aspects of the country that some in the “West” will find unsavory, and the methods certainly don’t conform to Western ideals of democracy. But this system clearly works for so many of the people there.

Rather than scold the country for the areas in which we believe it falls short, we should continue to encourage positive change. Praise the good for being good (such as their social and economic reforms), but don’t ignore the areas in which we disagree (like its actions in the war in Yemen).

After only ten days in the country, I won’t pretend that I suddenly know everything about Saudi Arabia. But I do believe I have gained a greater appreciation of the region and that perhaps I understand things just a little better. For that, I express my sincere thanks to the Middle East Policy Council, Gateway KSA, and of course HRH Prince Turki al-Faisal for his amazing hospitality and continued dedication to the U.S.-Saudi relationship. Visits like these are the most important tool we have to understand one another and work towards solutions to our shared global problems.